Jump to content Jump to search

Podere Sotto Il Nocce Saldalama Sparkling Blend (2022)

Gianfranco Alessandria Nebbiolo

Variety

Lambrusco Grasparossa, Lambrusco Sorbara, Lambrusco Fioranese, Uva Tosca, Trebbiano Modenese

Region

 Lambrusco Grasparossa DOC, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

Vineyard

Multiple

Soil Type

Clay

Farming

Organic, sustainable, biodynamic. Use compost, organic fertilizers, and natural preparations in their vineyards, avoiding herbicides, pesticides, and synthetic fertilizers.

Fermentation & Élevage

Max harvests by hand and is intensely detail-oriented in order to allow himself to minimally intervene during the winemaking process. All grape varieties are vinified separately and once the alcoholic fermentation is complete, they are assembled following Max's interpretation of depending on the vintage and vessels. Sulfur addition is done in tiny quantities (between 10 to 15mg/L) immediately after the end of alcoholic fermentation. The final blend is then bottled together with must from the previous vintage or grape sugar, without added yeast, in order to undergo the second fermentation in bottle. All sparkling wines are therefore referenced in bottles, unfiltered and without disgorgement.

Aging Potential

drink now

Alcohol

12.5% (the label rounds up to 13; we confirmed that the ABV is 12.5%)

Tasting Profile

Saldalama is precise, straightforward, and focused. It glides smoothly across the palate, offering an abundance of bright red fruit and subtle spice. Elegant, crystal-clear, and lively, it carries a restrained yet substantial presence that resonates long after the last sip.

Food Pairing

Cassoulet, cheese board, hamburgers, sausages, hearty vegetables, cured meats, turkey, squash purée

Background

Podere Sottoilnoce is a 7-hectare wine estate located in the picturesque village of Castelvetro di Modena, at the very heart of the Lambrusco Grasparossa DOC. The owner and winemaker, Max Brondolo has been applying biodynamic principles since 2016, with the goal of maintaining the balance between monoculture (vineyards) and surrounding nature.

Podere Sottoilnoce is a first-generation winery. While Max started this project from scratch, his family still had some experience with wine as his grandfather was also a winemaker, but in Asti, in Piedmont. That's where he built his first memories of wine as a kid - sparkling barbera. Very discreet about his previous professional life, he regrets he didn't start with winemaking earlier in his life. Interestingly, Max invested in buying vineyards before the cellar, or an actual winery. He is still a bit of a nomad winemaker. He collaborated with Gianluca Bergianti, where he started to make his wines. He uses another winemaker's facilities where his tanks are. His storage is at another place near Modena and his tasting room and office is at another very lovely small house by the vineyard.

Currently, Max is building a bigger winery together with two other winemakers and they will share the facilities, allowing for collaboration. The facility could also host other new craft winemakers in the future. Max believes that the region suffered from industrialization and this project would provide independent growers with a roof over their heads.

His hope to revitalize the authenticity of the region is also reflected in his work. The focus is on local grapes, with an intense desire to revive some of the forgotten indigenous varieties like Uva Tosca and Trebbiano di Spagna. The other tended grapes are: Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro (red), Lambrusco Fioranese, Lambrusco di Sorbara and Trebbiano Modenese.

"Saldalama", which refers to the place where a sword blade connects to its handle, is both elegant and rustic, strong in its mousse of bubbles re-fermented in the bottle (it undergoes 2 fermentations). Saldalama serves as an ideal introduction to Max Brondolo's remarkable world of sparkling wines. It prepares you for his highly individual and intricate Frizzante while paying homage to Castelvetro di Modena, the heart of Modena's Lambrusco production. Except for Trebbiano di Spagna, all his grape varieties are represented here: Lambrusco di Grasparossa brings strength, dark fruit, and energy; Lambrusco di Sorbara adds elegance and acidity; Uva Tosca contributes freshness and bright red fruit; the rare Lambrusco Fioranese provides rusticity and backbone, and Trebbiano Modenese imparts bright fruit and delicate floral notes.

Max skillfully blends these five grapes into a harmonious whole. Each variety is vinified separately, aged for nine months in stainless steel tanks, carefully blended, and then undergoes natural secondary fermentation in the bottle using a sweet must from the same grapes. Staying true to regional tradition, none of his sparkling wines are disgorged. The higher sugar content of the grapes makes allows this wine to have a moderate ABV level, 12.5%. If you do not want to drink all of it after opening, you can put a sparkling stopper into the bottle and enjoy it the next day. We tasted this after it was open for 24 hours, and the pristine, high acidity keeps some of the effervescence in tact.